Reviewed: Orelle, the 24th floor restaurant with 360 degree views of Birmingham - Birmingham Live

A preview of the restaurant before it opened showed me that it was one of the city's most beautiful dining rooms, but how's the food?

05:30, 14 Apr 2023Updated 11:06, 14 Apr 2023

I've got to say, I've been avoiding dining at Orelle. The only time I've been inside the restaurant, on the 24th floor of 103 Colmore Row, was before it opened to the public, to get an early look at the dining room. I've been avoiding it since.

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At the time, it was such a wonderful experience, to see Birmingham stretching out before me in every direction, that I didn't want to have that spoilt if the food was lacklustre. But, with an hour to spare on a bright Thursday lunchtime and keen to find a spot from which to enjoy the sun, I found myself staring up at the tower, squinting in the light as it reflected off the glass.

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It was the fixed menu for April that had lured me in. Two courses for £35 or three for £42 including a glass of Chandon bubbly sounded like a pretty decent deal for a special meal and, while I didn't have anything to celebrate but life itself, I wanted to give it a try.

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Waiting for a table, I sat in the bar, staring out over Birmingham. It was just as awe-inspiring as it had been the first time I came up here and I had a wonderful time drinking my Grapefruit non-alcoholic cocktail and trying to spot Old Joe, Digbeth, the Blues ground and more Brummie landmarks. Worth getting your Google Maps out here and using it to help you get your bearings.

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Service was sparkling and very efficient and I was seated at a window seat. To be honest, the windows are so massive that every one must feel like a window seat in this place. I positioned myself to face it, with nothing between me and Digbeth and beyond but a sheet of glass.

I felt special as they called me 'madame' and put my napkin on my lap, an early indicator that this place was offering a fine dining experience. I ignored the a la carte menu and surveyed the lunch one.

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When I was waiting for my Tomate starter, I slicked butter on the giant, warm boule of fresh bread on the table and watched the blue Metro snake through the city. I've said more than once that the corner table in Orelle must be the most romantic table in all of Brum and, sitting in the sun beside it, I felt even more certain it was true.

The starter, a globe artichoke tartare with black olive and baby turnip was set down before a small pot of heritage tomato gazpacho was poured around it. The dish on the whole was fresh and light, bright and seasonal, though very acidic.

I could drink the vinegar out of a jar of pickles and so it wasn't unpleasant, but I could feel it in my tum for a little while after; it definitely put the 'tart' in 'tartare'. In two ways, actually. First, it was very sharp and it was dressed very sexily in little, edible flowers.

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Before my Celeri-rave main course arrived, I sipped my free bubbles and overheard as a businessman made the understatement of the day. "It's quite nice up here," he told his colleague. I wanted desperately to point out all of the amazing things I could see but, I bit my tongue. That was the hardest part, all this wonder and no one to gush about it to. Well, I guess that's where you come in, reader.

The baked celeriac arrived, covered in a red lentil and vegetable ragu and topped with thin slices of Nashi pear. Another pour from the waitress, this time of celeriac Dashi.

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It was a really lovely springtime dish, the heartiness of the ragu a memory of winter, the crisp freshness of the pear and radish on top, a hopeful nod towards summer. Crisp fried kale added a crunch in the saucy lentils. The celeriac was boosted by the Dashi and it really made a vegetable that could otherwise be dull feel like a lovely, substantial thing.

There were no desserts on the menu for veggies, a lemon mousse and the chocolate alternative both containing gelatine and the cheese board likely devoid of a V thanks to rennet. The waitress, sensing my disappointment, offered me a vegan option instead.

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The prettiest little pudding was set on the table, a deconstructed cheesecake of sorts. It was extremely photogenic, a firm lavender-coloured coconut base bedazzled with tart raspberry and passionfruit blobs, a little addition of a sweet date sauce neutralised the acidity. A crumble decorated the side and added texture.

In total, my bill came to £60.83, including a donation to Women's Aid that was added on to the bill and the 12.5% discretionary service charge. Not the cheapest lunch in town by any stretch of the imagination, but the food is well above average and the dining room and service, well above that again. For a special occasion, it's verging on faultless.

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Looking out towards the Blues ground, the spring trees of south Brum to my right, the bustling suburbs of the north to my left, I realised that while I'd sat here alone, I'd shared a really smashing lunch with the perfect date: the beautiful city that I love, bathed in the spring sun.

We visited this restaurant at random and this review was independent and paid for by BirminghamLive.

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